SMU: Alpine and Marfa - Texas' Twin Cities

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Excerpt – The Dallas Morning News

Alpine and Marfa
Texas' twin cities

09:06 PM CDT on Friday, June 3, 2005
By SOPHIA DEMBLING / Special Contributor to The Dallas Morning News

The West Texas towns of Alpine and Marfa are 26 miles apart and as different as they are similar. Both are in growth mode – real estate prices in the area jumped 46 percent in 2004 – but for different reasons. Both have become lively arts towns.

Comparing the two is not exactly apples and oranges. It's more like McIntosh and Granny Smith.

Marfa's contemporary arts scene has led some to call it Marfa's Vineyard. Alpine is fighting its reputation as a place you pass through and, instead, is trying to establish itself as a friendly, small-city base (and we use the term "city" loosely) for exploring its spectacular surroundings.

Both make a memorable trip. Here's the scoop on each.

ALPINE

Population: About 6,500, seat of Brewster County
Dominant institution: Sul Ross University
Daytime pastimes:

Walking tour: Pick up a walking-tour map for an afternoon stroll viewing some of the town's historic buildings.
Museum of the Big Bend: U.S. Highway 90 to the campus of Sul Ross State University, entrance 2. This, that and the other thing about the area's geography, people, history. Contact: 432-837-8143; www.sulross.edu/~museum.

Galleries and shops: Galleria Esposito (110 N. 6th St.; 432-837-9474), a nonprofit benefiting a children's charity; HD@rt Gallery (2010 Highway 90 East; 432-837-2500), which specializes in motorcycle-related art; Gerson Artworks (602 1Ú2 W. Holland Ave.), for colorful, funky works by a self-taught artist; and others. Each November, Alpine Gallery Night (www.alpinegallerynight.com) attracts artists from all over the Big Bend region. Stop at Transpecos Guitars (in Texas Treasures, 305 E. Holland Ave.; 432-837-0101; www.transpecosguitars.com) and say "hi" to Mark Pollock, who used to own Charlie's Guitars in Dallas.

Night life: Railroad Blues: 504 W. Holland Ave., 432-837-3103; www.railroadblues.com. Good music and a beer selection to make aficionados hyperventilate.

Big doings: Texas' oldest cowboy poetry gathering every February

Literary pursuits: Front Street Books: 121 E. Holland Ave., 432-837-3360; www.fsbooks.com. New, used and out-of print books; author events; and an outpost in the town of Marathon.

Historic hotel: Holland Hotel: Built in 1912, it was the first hotel between El Paso and San Antonio to have all private baths. Rooms from $45. Contact: 1-800-535-8040; www.hollandhotel.net.

Hip hotel: Holland Hotel Guest Lofts: Brand new and tastefully decorated in bright colors. Some with living room, kitchen and whirlpool tub. From $115. Contact: 1-800-535-8040; www.hollandhotel.net/rooms/lofts.htm.

Dining:

Reata: 203 N. Fifth St., 432-837-9232; www.reata.net. Fine cowboy cuisine by chef Grady Spears and the original of a growing empire, with outposts now in Fort Worth and Woodland Hills, Calif.
Sixth Street Bakery: 114 N. Sixth St., 432-837-2253. Delicious home cooking and baked goods in a friendly setting. Try the tomato-basil soup.
Edelweiss Restaurant and Micro-Brewery: 209 W. Holland Ave., 1-800-535-8040. New German restaurant and microbrewery in the Holland Hotel.
La Trattoria Coffee and Juice Bar Cafe: 202 W. Holland Ave., 432-837-2200. Gourmet coffee, smoothies, dining, indoors or out.

MARFA

Population: About 2,100, seat of Presidio County
Dominant institution: Chinati Foundation
Daytime pastimes: Galleries, galleries, lunch, galleries.

Chinati Foundation: 1 Calvery Row, 432-729-4362; www.chinati.org. Contemporary art museum founded by Marfa's patron saint, the late Donald Judd. Guided tours start at 10 a.m.
Eugene Binder: 218 N. Highland Ave., 432-729-3900. Look for the gallery without a sign. (It's in the Jim Tyler building.)
Exhibitions 2D: 400 S. Highland Ave., 432-729-1910; www.exhibitions2d.com. Tranquil setting, contemporary art.
Galleri Urbane: 213 San Antonio St., 432-729-4200; www.galleriurbane.com. Focusing on emerging artists.
Highland Gallery: 119 N. Highland Ave., 432-729-3000. Photography, including a fine selection of photo books for sale.
Marfa Studio of Arts: 106 E. San Antonio St., 432-729-4616. A nonprofit community arts center.

Night life:

Ballroom Marfa: 108 E. San Antonio St., 432-729-3600; www.ballroommarfa.org. Contemporary art, and evening performances and events.
Marfa lights: Mysterious lights 9 miles east of Marfa on Highway 90.

Big doings: Chinati Foundation open house every October

Literary pursuits: Marfa Book Co.: 105 S. Highland Ave.; 432-729-3906. Browse, have a cup of coffee or glass of wine, check your e-mail.

Historic hotel: Hotel Paisano: Cast and crew stayed here during the filming of the movie "Giant," which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year in Marfa, with activities and screenings July 1-2. Rooms from $79 to $139. Contact: 1-866-729-3669; www.hotelpaisano.com.

Hip hotel: Thunderbird Hotel: Fifties motel renovated by Liz Lambert and Lake/Flato Architects (the team that turned South Austin's funky San Jose Hotel into a chic spot). Heated pool and in-room Ethernet. Rooms from $79. Contact: 432-729-1984; www.thunderbirdmarfa.com.